Steeped in history and tradition, India offers ancient monuments, breathtaking scenic vistas and the pomp and pageantry of unique religious traditions garnered from vast cultural diversity. It’s a land filled with unending contrasts—privilege and poverty, modern skyscrapered cities on the outskirts of drought-ridden villages, and an agricultural hinterland vying for attention with bustling urban industry...

Although India has a rich heritage in terms of its golf courses, not many of its more than 1 billion population have had the opportunity to play golf. It continues to be a “rich man’s” sport, with an estimated number of 200,000 players on about 250 golf courses. The number of women golfers is probably no more than a few thousand. Most clubs are privately owned or, more frequently, membership-based. Only two or three driving ranges open to the public have been set up recently in the north.

Until a few years ago, the game of golf was not growing significantly in India, but it is now all the rage. Head honchos of big companies enjoy golf not only for its undeniable networking opportunities, but as a means of acquiring a brief weekend reprieve from the hustle and bustle of living in urban India. Corporate golf events occur frequently, with the three or four big event management companies trying to outdo one another in offering grand events with even grander prizes to enthusiastic participants.

The other significant group of golfers to emerge in recent years is the junior golfers. The “Tiger Woods syndrome” has reached Indian shores with a vengeance. Every parent thinks his or her child will be the next Woods or Michelle Wie, and consequently, the national junior circuit is a minefield of overly ambitious parents with their indoctrinated-into-golf offspring.

The governing body for golf in India, the Indian Golf Union, dynamically promotes the interests of amateur golf. A member of the IGU can pay discounted greens fees and play at any member club.

Golf in India remains cheap by international standards. A round of golf, even the most exclusive of clubs, costs no more than $40 for a nonmember. If a caddie receives $5 for a round, then that may be the heftiest tip he has ever received. Golf lessons even from the most qualified professionals are never more than $15 per hour. An average rate would be a mere $4 in the big metros and considerably less in smaller towns.

Carts are rarely seen in India. Golfers almost always walk and are accompanied by a caddie, with an age-walla (forecaddie) walking ahead to spot balls. Forecaddies will also shag balls for anyone wishing to practice, and their services are easy, convenient and cheap to acquire.

Golf in India reflects the nation’s overall history and tradition. The Royal Calcutta Golf Club, for example, is the oldest golf club in the world outside of the British Isles. Even its name is an anachronism since “Royal” is no longer an acceptable appellation, and Calcutta was long ago changed to Kolkata. Women were not allowed into the hallowed portals of certain areas of the club, including its bar, for years after British Raj (rule) in India had receded to faint memory.

Four zones each have their own unique and beautiful golf courses, types of golfing traditions and golfing fraternity. The East has probably the richest history and tradition of golf in India, with the RCGC and, across the road, the “Tolly,” or Tollygunge Golf Club. Goats wander its fairways, horses and riders from its riding club canter past in the evening, and the locals sometimes descend for a game of football, about which the management can do little.

Eastern India, specifically the state of Assam, also encompasses the rich tea estates of the burra sahibs who set up many nine-hole golf facilities for their private amusement during the halcyon days of their rule over India.

South India, with tea and coffee estates dotted throughout its Nilgiri Hills, also received the munificence of its long-ago lords. Today, the Kodaikanal and Ootacamund hill stations are visited as much for their unique golf courses, spread out over rolling countryside, as for their temperate climate and quiet serenity.

Bangalore, the hub of India’s booming information technology industry, and Chennai (formerly Madras) have some unique courses between them, too. For instance, the Guindy course in Chennai is in the middle of the local racecourse, so it has no trees but an endless stiff wind that makes almost every hole appear to be longer than it is.

West India, in golfing parlance, did not extend much past Mumbai (the erstwhile Bombay) until recently. Mumbai’s three golf courses are a small course set in the middle of the stately Willingdon Sports Club; an almost links–like setup at the seaside of the United Services Club; and the challenging course at the Bombay Presidency Golf Club.

Pune (earlier Poona) had a golf course where sheet rock could make a perfect tee shot ricochet off into the out-of-bounds; a paper tee was required to be used as the miniscule 4-by-2-foot teeing areas were too hard for conventional tees; and only local golfers could hope to win a match, for only they knew how best to have the sand greens swept smooth with a broom. In its new avatar (version), this course is the pride of Western India.

Many courses have sprung up in recent years in other parts of Western India too, including the lush green Gaekwad Baroda Golf Club, set in the grounds of Baroda’s magnificent royal palace.North India has produced most Indian golfers of merit since independence in 1947. The North Indian are often thought of as rugged, extremely athletic and highly competitive, where those from the East and South seem more cultural, and those in the West seem more fascinated with commerce and business.

The Delhi Golf Club is a jewel in the crown of India’s golf courses, with its fascinating Moghul tombs from the 17th century. Arrogant peacocks strut around the golf course as if they owned it. Membership at this club is so full a member once remarked, “If you believe in rebirth, sign up for membership now, and come and claim it two lives hence.”

People from Delhi and Chandigarh are known to produce the best golfers of all levels. Some new well-known designer golf courses have also helped to take Delhi, the political capital, become the golfing capital of the nation.

Less known but equally significant golf courses abound in North India. These are mostly constructed by the army in cantonment towns. They’re significant because some have produced top–notch “caddie-professionals.” This term, unique to India, differentiates the working-class forecaddie-turned-caddie-turned-professional from the “gentleman pro,” usually a privileged young man possessing numerous club memberships.

Golf is one of India’s best-kept secrets and is likely to remain that way. The average visitor tends to be lured to the known wonders like the Taj Mahal in Agra, the hippie beaches of happy Goa and the unending architectural grandeur dating from ancient times seen in every nook and corner of this vast and fascinating land.

Kiran Kanwar a Mumbai-based teaching professional. She also runs a golf instruction Web site, www.yourgolfguru.com.